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Leeks


August through October

leek.jpg"As with onions and garlic, leek consumption is depicted in Egyptian tomb decorations around 2925 B.C. Leeks were grown and widely used for cooking in Sumeria (southern Iraq) even earlier. In China, during the 5th century cultivation of the Asian variety was described along the Red River Valley, where it had been cultivated for centuries". - The Cambridge World History of Food

"One of the most subtle of the onion group…upon preparation will turn softer than Belgian endive or lettuce."

Basic Use: …excellent in braises and soups. They provide complexity, sweetness and boy, more so than onion…. Cooked in parchment or foil (oven-steamed), leeks are truly special, different than any other way you may have tasted them: unusually savory, concentrated, and of a uniform, melting consistency. Stir-fry, sauté…delicate when poached, excellent brushed with oil and grilled.

Selection: …Tender spring leeks are rarely part of our repertoire unless you live in a growing area where they are sold at farmers’ markets. …Smallness and paleness, both of which signal tenderness, are important for leeks that will be cooked whole….Look for leeks with taut upright green tops. Avoid leeks with bulging bulbs. Most important, bend the pale lower part of the stalk to be sure it has “give”; if it does not, chances are good that it has a woody core and will never soften during cooking.

Storage: Wrap leeks in a slightly damp paper then, then plastic; keep in the vegetable crisper for up to a week.

Preparation: (unorthodox, quicker method to remove dirt): Unless the leek is to be cooked whole….trim the roots and very ratty leaves. (Dark green leaves turn tender if cut small and well cook; there is no reason to remove them.) Slice across to the width desired, dump into plenty of water, then drain. Repeat a few times. The slices do not absorb water or lose flavor, and the process is faster and easier than slitting.”

From Amaranth to Zucchini, Elizabeth Schneider, William Morrow, 2001

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